It's maybe too early to be chanting ’Oh my God, I can't believe it, we've never been this good away from home!' to the tune of the Kaiser Chiefs hit but, putting the second half of the England game to one side, there's been encouraging signs in the wins over Finland and now Bulgaria.
In the aftermath I decided to do a bit of digging. My first away game was the famous 1-0 win over Italy in the 1994 World Cup. Since then I've watched a further 50 Ireland games on the road and seen a sum total of 17 wins.
There've been plenty of great draws and moral victories but wins aren’t the normal outcome so, notwithstanding the opposition, it's worth celebrating them when they come.
The trip started with a 4am alarm call to wake me from the usual disrupted sleep that a red eye flight tends to bring. Saint Tom had an early taxi booked and after collecting Sagey en route a stop in Drumcondra was arranged and by 4.30 we were on our way for a 6.15 flight to Liverpool and then onwards to Sofia.
After being joined by Zeno, the final member of our outward traveling party, a quick pint in Dublin Airport was followed by another couple in Liverpool before our second flight was called with three and a half hours ahead of us before landing in Sofia. The flight had the usual jovial atmosphere you get before the general crushing disappointment of the game so spirits were high for the duration, helped by a few cans of Morretti and the sausage sambos Tom had helpfully brought along for the group.
As I was staying with my old friend Jack, who'd moved over to Bulgaria five years ago, I parted company with the lads at Sofia Airport and was greeted by Jack who'd kindly agreed to collect me and drive to Pazardzhik, a town about 30 minutes from Plovdiv by train that his missus is from. The 90 minute drive was a great chance to catch up and after dropping my bag at his place we made our way into Plovdiv.
Rumoured to be the oldest city in Europe with evidence of habitation in the area dating back to 6,000 BC, Plovdiv was settled by the Romans around 46 AD and, similar to cities I've visited in Italy and Greece, still bears the hallmarks of that ancient empire with excavated ruins visible throughout the old town.
After a quick stroll through the centre and a pizza stop en route, we made our way to an Irish bar called Morrigans where some of our regular away crew such as Brummie Bren, Steve Amsterdam and ‘Captain Ireland’ Karl were ensconced and more catch ups were held before embarking on a bit of a crawl through some of the local bars.
With trains back to Pazardzhik running at 10.30 and then 2.40am, I managed to deter Jack from getting the earlier trip home and we ended up in some basement bar called Al Capone's that was packed with Irish fans. Someone had taken control of the sound system and between Kneecap tunes and the likes of Put 'Em Under Pressure being blared out the place was absolutely hopping until we had to take our leave about 2 in the morning to grab a kebab and head to the train station.
By now, what had been a pleasant day temperature wise had changed and the thermometer had plummeted to just above freezing so the 20 minute walk to the station seemed a lot longer than it had earlier in the day. Works on the line meant a bus connection was required before linking up with the train and after another 20 minute walk in the cold back to Jack's apartment I finally got to bed about 4am, a mere 22 hours after I got up for some well earned sleep.
The distance we were staying from Plovdiv meant that an 11am start for the walking tour I'd normally start game day with was never realistic so I took the advantage of an extra hour in bed and eventually surfaced about noon. Our train into Plovdiv was around 2.30 and the journey in was spent chatting to a couple of sound young lads over from Belfast for the match. The fact that neither of them were even close to being old enough to remember Alan McLoughlin’s equaliser in their hometown made me feel very old, particularly when I did the maths and figured that was now 32 years ago!
The 9.45pm kick-off gave us a bit of time to explore the town on foot and meant Jack’s local knowledge came in handy. While the state of the paving left a lot to be desired and indicated to me, along with the number of derelict buildings, that the country is still quite poor, the old town itself was lovely.
A walk through the park saw us come across a huge number of local men playing chess against each other on communal tables and the city is also littered with murals on the gables of buildings which provide a nice contrast with the brutalist communist architecture that’s also on display. The town itself is built on a number of hills and as Karl had recommended a restaurant on top of one of the hills we made our way up there and had a tasty local dish called sach which was a mix of sausage, pork, chicken and various veg served in a clay dish to share.
Appetites sated, we moved back down to the town and met the rest of the gang in the main square where a good portion of our fans had congregated and settled down outside a cafe bar for a few pre-match looseners.
There was a huge police presence around the square to ensure none of the local ultras were tempted to look for trouble but any of the locals we came across were bang on. The police were keen to move fans up to the ground at 6.30 but we had no desire to be at the ground three hours before kick-off so decided to take our chances waiting where we were and making our own way up to the ground closer to the start of the game. We were told by the local cops that there would be no escort if we did that but by the time we eventually left around 8.30 we were tailed throughout the 25-minute walk by a police van and had an uneventful journey.
The teams had come through at that stage and the only big surprise for me was the inclusion of Ryan Manning at left back given he hadn’t even been in the initial squad and was only called up after Callum O’Dowda pulled out injured. I also thought Jake O’Brien was unlucky not to get a start after his recent form for Everton but given Matt Doherty’s own recent renaissance it was hard to argue with his selection.
It looked like Ireland would line up in an old-fashioned 4-4-2 or maybe 4-4-1-1 with Finn Azaz playing as a number 10 off Troy Parrott and sure enough once the game started that was the shape the team dropped into. Parrott’s selection ahead of Evan Ferguson made sense given the lack of recent game-time for the latter.
We actually started the game quite well and created a few half-chances early on so our hearts sank when we somehow found ourselves behind on seven minutes after Bulgaria's first attack. Ireland had just missed a decent chance from a Manning header off an Azaz cross when Bulgaria broke. To be fair, it was a lovely back-heel from Krastev to Petkov and while he didn't catch the shot perfectly it was just beyond Caoimhín Kelleher’s reach and went in off the left-hand post.
It seems old habits die hard as we succumbed to another shot from outside the box but to be fair to the team heads didn’t drop and they kept playing their football and creating chances. Another Azaz cross to Manning was headed over the bar before the equaliser arrived on 21 minutes and it was a beauty.
First off Doherty played a long raking cross-field ball which found Robbie Brady wide on the left. Brady controlled it and sent it back across the pitch to the waiting Parrott who cushioned a fantastic volley back across the goal when the waiting Azaz had a simple task to head it into an empty net. One each and game on again.
Scenting blood, the team kept the pressure on with Brady’s dead ball deliveries causing Bulgaria all sorts of problems. On 36 minutes he sent another free in and found Parrott again with Nathan Collins nearly getting on the end of his teammate’s driven ball across the six yard line.
Coming up to half-time I was happy enough with what I’d seen and would have taken the one each scoreline with the second half to come. But things got even better for Ireland just as the clock ticked into the 45th minute. The lead goal was reminiscent of Brady’s famous winner against Italy at Euro 2016 with Josh Cullen taking the Wes Hoolahan role and lofting a ball into the box and Doherty in the Brady role with an excellent run to get his head to it ahead of the onrushing keeper and nod it into the net.
For a player whose languid style has led to a degree of criticism it was a lung-busting run to reach a ball he was second favourite for and was well deserved for his endeavour and the team’s first half efforts.
Having gone in behind, it was a very aggressive Bulgaria that came out for the second half and I don’t know if that approach rattled Ireland a bit but the hosts certainly had a spell for the first 15 minutes of the half without really threatening Kelleher’s goal. By the time the ref had booked two of the Bulgarians around the hour mark we seemed to regain a bit of control. To be fair, it was just the Bulgarians going into the book and the stop-start nature of the half was shown with the fact that the ref ended up showing four yellow cards to each side.
I’ve seen the second half performance criticised in some quarters, including Heimir Hallgrimsson’s initial analysis, but for me I felt we were comfortable for the final half hour of the game and looked more likely to add a third than concede an equaliser.
The introduction of Rocco Vata for his debut as Hallgrimsson emptied his bench was welcome given the noises about Albania sniffing around for his allegiance although he was one of those to pick up a booking. The impressive Manning was another to be taken off as Jake O’Brien got some minutes under his belt and Ferguson also saw a few minutes as we saw out the game without many problems.
The fact we were held back in the ground for 30 minutes after the game coupled with the 9.45 kick-off meant it was after midnight when we were allowed out of the ground and after a walk back to the centre we still had time for a final couple of drinks in Download before myself and Jack had to make the walk back to the train station for that 2.40 bus and train journey back to Pazardzhik. Another kebab helped us on the way before another 4am finish ahead of Friday’s morning’s journey back to Sofia for my flights home.
In terms of the game, Azaz definitely deserved his man of the match award and amongst the more inexperienced players Manning and Parrott stood out while the veterans Doherty and Brady turned in the sort of performances that I thought were beyond them at this stage of their international careers and reflected Hallgrimsson’s faith in them.
As for Hallgrimsson, that’s three wins from seven since he took over and while they have come against lower ranked opposition in Finland and Bulgaria it’s still a positive start, especially when you consider it took Stephen Kenny 12 games to get his first victory. I’ve mentioned before that sometimes it’s better to be a lucky general rather than a good one and we have gotten more breaks in some of those wins than Kenny seemed to get in his tenure.
In terms of the trip, it was a great couple of days with a good atmosphere around the town and a good welcome from the locals. It was policed exceptionally well with the heavy police presence not intimidating at all and they were very helpful with any issues. An away crew of over a thousand was a good turnout for a Nations League game and it was great to catch up with old friends.
A special mention to my good buddy Jack who was happy to put me up and drop me back to the airport early on Friday morning despite the heavy couple of days and it was great to have his local knowledge for the couple of days.
Now all we need to do is make sure not to do anything silly and to put the tie to bed tonight!